Retinoids are vitamin-A creams (retinol, retinaldehyde, adapalene and tretinoin) and are among the most evidence-based ingredients in dermatology. They speed skin-cell turnover, unclog pores, fade pigmentation and stimulate collagen, which is why they help both acne and skin ageing.
How to apply
• Use at night only - retinoids are broken down by daylight, and they make skin more sun-sensitive.
• Cleanse and let skin dry for a few minutes. Applying to damp skin increases irritation.
• Use a pea-sized amount for the whole face. More is not better; it simply causes irritation.
• Dot over cheeks, forehead and chin, then spread in a thin film. Avoid the immediate eyelids, corners of the nose and lips.
• Follow with a plain moisturiser. If you are sensitive, the "sandwich" method - moisturiser, then retinoid, then moisturiser - buffers the effect.
Start low and build up
Introduce a retinoid gradually so your skin adapts. A typical schedule:
• Weeks 1-2: 2 nights per week
• Weeks 5-6: every second night
• Week 7 onward: nightly, if comfortable
What to expect ("retinisation")
Mild dryness, flaking, tightness or a little redness in the first 2-6 weeks is normal as your skin adjusts - it is not an allergy. Ease off the frequency if it becomes uncomfortable, keep moisturising, and it settles. Acne can appear to flare briefly before it improves.
Do and don't
• Do wear a broad-spectrum SPF50+ every morning - non-negotiable with retinoids.
• Do be consistent; benefits for lines and pigment take 3-6 months.
• Don't combine on the same night with strong scrubs, AHA/BHA acids or benzoyl peroxide unless advised - alternate nights instead.
• Don't use around a waxing or cosmetic treatment; pause for a few days either side.
Important - pregnancy and when to call
• Prescription retinoids should not be used in pregnancy or when breastfeeding. Stop and tell Dr Kim if you are planning or become pregnant.
• Contact the practice if you develop severe burning, blistering, swelling or a persistent rash rather than the expected mild dryness.